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How To Dye Fabric

June 25, 2015 by Jenny Gomes Leave a Comment

How To Dye Fabric

Dying fabric takes a certain level of comfort with commitment. There are products sold to remove dye but I have never used them and it sounds like more work and less fun than I’m looking for in my naptime sewing pursuits. I chose to dye several of my husband’s worn out, plain white work tee shirts with the intention of sewing them into baby leggings (excellent use of any knit), little girl skirts, and my flyaway back tank that I posted about here. This was a great way to use up the parts of the shirts that aren’t worn out, though was a little tedious cutting around the holes.

You can buy a fairly inexpensive bottle of liquid dye or even less expensive powdered dye and new life to old or faded fabrics pretty easily. Rit is a popular brand that I have had great success with but there are many other brands out there that are awesome also. Rit is appropriate for cotton, cotton blends, linen, other natural fibers, and some polyester blends. Generally, the more man-made fiber content, the more it would behoove you to seek out a brand of dye specifically for that fabric type.

I was inspired by the beautiful shibori dying technique (examples here and here) but chose teal dye instead of navy. I used rubber bands to bunch up tie-dye-style the old tee shirts and placed them in a clean 5-gallon bucket, and put the bucket in our wash basin. Someday I may write an ode to the ever-useful wash basin that seems less and less popular in newer homes but I will be brief and just say I love mine for projects just like this one. In addition to needing a clean, non-porous bucket or receptacle you need a stirring stick. I grabbed a stick from the yard and was very glad to not have to worry about cleaning it. For past projects, I used a yardstick. If you have no stick handy, choose a non-porous (hard plastic) stick and avoid metal as it can react with the dye and probably change the dye a bit and perhaps pit the metal.

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The directions will likely direct you to stir, stir, stir, and I wouldn’t skimp on this even if you are dying old tee shirts. The agitation is pretty important. The next step will be to rinse by hand and wash in a washing machine. Surely, you should use gloves to rinse but I’d be lying if I said I did. And my cuticles were green as a result.

I like to have a plan of what I will wash in the washing machine after I dye fabric. Rags or the plastic shower curtain are good choices to be sure your washing machine is free of excess dye. Run a large, empty load or a tub wash cycle, then wash something like rags directly afterward to be on the safe side.


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The dying is actually very simple. Follow the directions on the bottle or box which are all basically going to tell you to add water, the dye, maybe white vinegar and/or salt (as a fixative which will help the dye “stick” to the fabric) and stir. The amount of fabric you can dye is based on weight- usually a pound or two of fabric per container of dye.

The advantage of liquid dye is minimal but clear: you don’t have to wonder if you have stirred vigorously enough for long enough the cauldron of teal blue water to dissolve the powder entirely. I have never had trouble with the Rit powdered kind and because it comes in a cardboard box, rather than a plastic bottle, and is less expensive by about $2, I’d say it is preferable for casual dying projects.

As for washing the hand-dyed garments later, I try my best to wash in cold water and with vinegar in the additive dispenser.

Easy, right? Tell me in the comment section below, Wildflowers, what have you dyed with success? Share your tips below!

How to Dye Fabric | A Domestic Wildflower

Filed Under: Craft, Sew

One Sewing Pattern Three Ways: Simplicity 1589

June 23, 2015 by Jenny Gomes Leave a Comment

One lesson that this post address is how to make sewing cost effective. If you purchase a full price pattern, brand new fabric at full price, and all the matching thread and notions, it is likely you won’t be making a garment that costs you less than buying one of far inferior quality but is inarguably similar. In fact, sewing can be a really expensive hobby. However, as I learned to work at a fabric store, the way to make it pay is by choosing patterns that have many options that you will truly use. I purchased Simplicity pattern 1589 and made three tops so far- I’m not done yet! The subsequent times you use a pattern you are much faster and the process can be much more enjoyable.
1 Sewing Pattern, 3 Variations: Simplicity 1589 | A Domestic Wildflower click through to read this helpful beginner sewing post that demonstrates how easy it is to make very different garments from one pattern.

I worked at JoAnn’s Fabrics the whole time I was in college and let me tell you; I LOVED it. If you have to be at work early in the morning on the weekend while attending college in a super fun town like I had to, JoAnn’s is the place to be. Customers choose to shop there because they are making something awesome. That’s a great vibe to be around and I learned a lot about sewing by working there.

I’d recommend this pattern to a beginner as it is from their “Learn to Sew” line which means the instructions are very clear, the techniques needed are fairly basic, and it was simple to sew. I chose it specifically because I love back interest in garments and this pattern is a loose tank that pulls over the head and has either a cut out or a flyaway back interest. Both styles allow for a standard brassiere and are easy to take in.

On all three tanks I took the sides in significantly; about three inches on each side. I’m slender and while I like the flowy look it was a bit too billowy and hid my shape rather than flattered it.


1 Sewing Pattern, 3 Variations: Simplicity 1589 | A Domestic Wildflower click through to read this helpful beginner sewing post that demonstrates how easy it is to make very different garments from one pattern.
Want to learn to sew? This is the course that I recommend and love!

1 Sewing Pattern, 3 Variations: Simplicity 1589 | A Domestic Wildflower click through to read this helpful beginner sewing post that demonstrates how easy it is to make very different garments from one pattern.

1 Sewing Pattern: 3 Variations of Simplicity 1589 | A Domestic Wildflower
The grey and orange one shows off the cut out back and while you wouldn’t have to do the color blocking, I love how it turned out. I can’t take credit for pairing those fabrics; They were rubber-banded together in a box of fabric belonging to our Great Aunt Betty, bless her stylish heart.
The floral top is made from a rayon blend which is has a nice drape and I love the flyaway back. This was the first top from the pattern I made and I made it in an afternoon (with a small baby around, no less) the day before I planned to wear it. Success!

1 Sewing Pattern, 3 Variations: Simplicity 1589 | A Domestic Wildflower click through to read this helpful beginner sewing post that demonstrates how easy it is to make very different garments from one pattern.
The aqua knit number was an experiment in lots of ways. I will write a full post on how I did it soon, but the short story is that I dyed several of my husband’s worn out white work tee shirts with Rit dye and used them for one of these tops. It was totally breaking the rules because the pattern calls for woven fabrics and this is obviously knit. I have found that it sometimes works out okay when you use a knit when it calls for a woven but if you go the other way around and use a woven when it calls for knitting you are asking for trouble. In this top, I’d say it was a success on all counts.

The pattern suggests lots of types of wovens that are making me eager to rustle up a yard and a half of eyelet, voile, or linen.

I know there is a lot to consider when choosing a sewing pattern but I have found that the most important thing when investing in a pattern is the different options it has and the likelihood that you will sew the pattern multiple times. Bear that in mind and you will get a greater return on your sewing investment.

The photographs for this post were taken by the lovely and talented Della Hayden of Circle Bar Photography. If only she lived closer, she’d be taking all my photos!

Sew on, Wildflowers! What pattern have you used and loved for its versatility? Share in the comment section below!

If you love beginner friendly inspirations like these, subscribe and never miss a post!

Yes, PLEASE!

If you want to learn how to sew, check out the courses HERE!

One Sewing Pattern Three Ways: Simplicity 1589

Filed Under: Sew Tagged With: back interest

Metal Cots: A Summertime Must Have

June 18, 2015 by Jenny Gomes Leave a Comment


Summer is here, and to a teacher, this is a sacred time of year where we plan to do all of the things we can’t quite fit in from September to May. On my summer to-do list is reading and relaxing with a cold drink on my newly painted and spruced up outdoor cots.

An old metal cot is a thing you should absolutely seek out at your next barn sale or flea market. There are several kinds I have seen including ones with springs (like the inside of a mattress), cots that fold up and have wheels (handy dandy if the wheels are still in good shape), and simpler designs with no springs or wheels but are plenty comfortable. When choosing one, look for what will clean up the easiest. I left one behind that had a LOT of unidentified dark grease that I imagined would 1) be difficult and time-consuming to clean and 2) would probably make my spray paint not stick. Cots also come in non-standard sizes. For example, I have one that is wider and shorter than a twin bed but definitely not as wide as a double. This makes dressing them in bedding an exercise in creativity but that’s half the fun.

A word of caution about these dinosaurs. They were manufactured before the time of plastic-everything and safety mechanisms. Many a finger has been pinched or worse in the hinges and springs of old metal contraptions. Keep your fingers away from the moving parts and your nap and reading should commence without a band-aid needed.

Often times I am overcome with spray paint enthusiasm and in classic Wildflower style, I recently drug home three found cots. I already have two. There are four humans in my household. I definitely do NOT need five metal cots but in my imagination, my children’s future sleepovers will be thus elevated to awesome.

I scrubbed my found cots and sprayed with white spray paint. I propped one cot up on four pieces of firewood which actually made it a lot easier to spray the underside of the rails. Because I drug home so many cots, I got a little hasty and failed to prop up the remaining ones but they all turned out nicely. I have found that the spray paint that can be sprayed upside down makes the task of painting even easier and faster and may be worth the extra couple bucks per can. I used two cans of paint for four cots but my cots weren’t all that rusty.


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One way I dressed my cot is by making an outdoor fabric duvet (tutorial coming soon!) and filling it with an old queen sized comforter folded in thirds. Be creative and don’t get hung up on finding a mattress. I have found that a blanket has been quite comfortable.

Happy napping, Wildflowers! What treasures have you found to elevate your summertime?


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Metal Cots: A Summertime Must Have

Filed Under: Craft Tagged With: metal cot

How to Use a Curved Needle to Mend Upholstery

June 11, 2015 by Jenny Gomes 2 Comments

 

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I wrote a little post on how to mend an area rug with a curved needle here and it wasn’t long after that I was able to put that handy curved needle to use once again and I thought I’d share the new application.

I don’t aim to demonstrate the image of perfection with this post. Sometimes, repairs and alterations need to look top notch, like when taking in a formal bodice here, but sometimes, my goal is done, not perfect. My goal here is to simply show how you can solve a problem with a simple tool.

The upholstery stitching on my husband’s fishing boat seat had separated with regular wear and tear and while I wasn’t entirely sure I could sew it by hand, I thought of the hassle of removing the seat cover entirely and borrowing our friend’s industrial machine and figured it was definitely worth the try. The result was a strong mending job that didn’t take very long and while it doesn’t look all that awesome, it saved me a lot of time by mending by hand.

Begin by threading a curved needle with strong thread. Strong thread can be upholstery or button thread, or the not quite as strong but still good denim thread. Make a large knot at the end. Using pliers if necessary, pull the needle from the underside of one side of the tear or separated seam. If you have a tear, you will exert a lot more elbow grease because pushing the needle through leather or marine vinyl will be tough. If you have a separated seam, as I did, use the existing holes. This will be less work and will provide a nice, even stitch guide. The trouble with weathered upholstery is that it may tear or stretch or split if you pull the thread too hard. I’d say slow and steady would win the upholstery mending race.

Bring the needle up and depending on how firmly the knot is anchored on the reverse, you may need to tie the tail to the thread around the edge of the tear. Once the knot is anchored, you can begin stitching. Choose your stitch based on the stitching that exists, your skill and patience level, and the level of difficulty in getting the needle through the upholstery. You may have to use pliers to push the needle through every hole, and by stitch three, your neck and shoulders may start aching as mine did since I was hunched awkwardly over the boat seat. Onward, Wildflowers!

I stitched as best I could in a modified Whip Stitch and it is not pretty but it closed the foam from the elements and it looks a lot better than it did. Knot and knot again, especially if the vinyl is weathered.  Dare I say that it looks a ton better than a slap of duct tape over the seam and it will last much longer.

Your next curved needle and upholstery task may look a lot different than mine. May your needle sew smoothly! Share your experiences below, Dear Readers!

Filed Under: Sew Tagged With: curved needle, mend

How To Mend a Rug with a Curved Needle

June 11, 2015 by Jenny Gomes Leave a Comment

This post will explain how to use a curved needle to mend a rug and will share my best tips for doing so.
How to Use a Curved Needle to Mend a Rug | The Domestic Wildflower | Using a curved needle to mend something is easy with this post.
This post contains affiliate links.
When my husband and I were buying our home, we bought this rug at a local furniture store and we loved everything about it. We quoted the movie, “The Big Lebowski” for weeks, noting how the rug really “tied the room together.” This rug has been in our high traffic living room for over five years now, and we have since had two babies and a Lab, and it is a little worse for wear. The binding of the rug has started to split from the body of the rug along the edge and by repairing it with a strong, curved needle, we can enjoy it for years to come.

To mend a rug yourself, you need a strong needle. Because you will be pushing the needle through a fairly thick item with your fingertips, the curve of the needle allows you to have a curve to push on, rather than a pointed eye. It is not that you are sewing in a circular fashion, but rather the rounded edge gives you a surface edge to press upon that won’t pierce or hurt your fingers. If you don’t have a curved needle (many needle sets come with one-check your sewing basket before heading to the store) a strong darning needle is suitable but you might need to rustle up a thimble while you’re at it to protect your fingertips when pushing through the rug. In a pinch, I have used leather gloves so try that if the company is on the way over and you need something mended now.

I have mended my rug at two different times with two different types of thread with equal success. I had a spool of very strong “button thread” that I bought by accident years ago and have been using for tasks like this ever since. It is one of the strongest threads sold in a standard sewing store and if you have a needle with an eye large enough, you would likely be very glad you purchased a spool.

Another very handy spool of thread you could use is denim thread. This is the goldenrod (not blue) colored thread that matches the leg and hem seam stitching on your jeans and while it is not as quite as strong as button thread, it is plenty strong for rug mending and can be used for hemming and repairing denim later.

I would bring your needle, thread, and scissors to the floor and sew sitting cross-legged if your rug is large. If it is small and not too awkward, bringing it to your lap would probably save your neck and shoulders some strain.

To mend, thread your needle and make a heavy knot at the end. Work methodically from one end of your tear to the other. Bring the needle up from the underside, and down on the other side of the split, about an eighth of an inch from the tear. Space your next stitch about a quarter inch from the last. Repeat until you have closed the split and knot on the underside.

When I share such simple tips with my friends, the reaction is often, “That’s it?” And the answer is yes! Some of the best ways to keep what we have lasted are the simplest. By using an appropriate and curved needle, your fingers will be saved and your effort will be preserved by using sturdy thread.

Here’s to rugs that really tie the room together. Please share any other uses for curved needles and sturdy thread you have found!

If you want to learn how to sew, check out the courses HERE!

Filed Under: Sew

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